"Red sky in morning, sailor take warning,
Red sky at night, sailors delight"
Reading Lisa’s story about her first trip to a Spanish-speaking country made me think about the places I have been. Her account awakened my memories of the stress, confusion, and excitement of an exotic destination. So much about ourselves is revealed when we are taken out of the familiar; when we are decontextualized. Travel, when done correctly, involves an inward journey simultaneous to the outward one. These trips serve as markers for who we were, and mileposts on the journey to who we are.
Cozumel, Mexico, 1991
Cozumel is a small island in the Caribbean, off the coast of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula. This idyllic location gives no indication of the many defeats it has witnessed. It was home to the Maya who used the islands’ limestone to build their pyramids. Later, it was a stopover for Cortez on his way to conquer Montezuma and the Aztec Empire. Now its abundant sea-life, turquoise waters, and white sand beaches make it a destination for divers, deep-sea fishermen, and honeymooners. When I arrived on the island I was just twenty-five, newly married and ignorant of the demise of the empires that preceded me. Would I have taken it as an omen had I known? I remember only snippets of the trip, like individual scenes in a movie preview. It was my first trip to a non-English speaking place. I remember the awe I felt when I checked into our room and felt the cool pink marble under my feet, heard the gentle sound of waves breaking below our terrace, and smelled the peculiar musty smell of rot that pervades everything in the Caribbean. Each morning the sun would rise and paint the clouds red, a sign that hurricane season had yet to end. I can still feel the warm wind in my hair as we sped around the island on our rented scooter. I recall the ferry ride to Playa del Carmen and the taxi ride through the jungle to the Mayan ruins of Tulum. They are the only ruins that are right on the beach. I was standing on centuries old stone alters that had witnessed human sacrifices while European to
urists in Speedos sunbathed on the beach before me. On the taxi ride through the jungle back to the boat the radio was playing “Little Drummer Boy” in Spanish. It was only October 8th. The whole experience was surreal.
I can remember how it felt to sit in the back of that taxi, in that strange place, and I can still remember that sharp smell of decay. Perhaps it was the tropics that were to blame for the failure of my marriage. The very environment that draws people to the Caribbean eventually destroys everything that man tries to build there.
….
A decade later, much had changed for me. Nearly everything I feared had come to pass. I had been abandoned; my parents had retired and left to travel full-time, my closest friends had graduated and moved away, and my marriage had collapsed under the weight of our mutual immaturity and selfishness. I quit rock climbing, as I did not trust myself in life-or-death situations. I had found myself dangling, a hundred feet in the air, contemplating letting go. I had to endure the long process of coming to terms with what I saw as a profound personal failure. As with the death of a person, I had to pass through the stages of grief to reach acceptance. Recrimination, reflection and finally realization of my contribution to the euthanizing of our relationship filled the next several years. After much work, I regained the courage to take risks; a return to graduate school, a new career, and most importantly a new love entered my life. I returned to the tropics a new man.
Sugar Beach, Costa Rica, 1999
We drove north for several hours as the Pan-American highway snaked through the mount
ains before we turned off onto a smaller secondary road and headed for the pacific coast. As we passed through the rainforest, our progress was monitored by the monkeys. We crossed over streams on rickety bridges, while Cayman, a relative of the crocodile, swam underneath. Eventually the road turned to gravel, and then finally to dirt. The last ten miles took thirty minutes, as the road deteriorated to a twin ruts, passable only with 4-wheel drive. Finally we were there. The white stucco building was perched on a low hill overlooking the private beach. A huge green parrot stood guard at the front desk, while the grounds were patrolled by a Cameroon (sort of a cross between a lemur and a raccoon). The open-air dining room overlooked a small lawn and a path, which gently led down the hill to palm-frond shaded tables in the sand. There were only six rooms, each with a front porch flanked by pairs of palm trees with a hammock strung between. Between the rooms and the ocean was a turquoise tiled pool. The pool was filled completely to the brim, so the surface of the water seemed to extend to meet the ocean. I learned this is called a zero horizon effect.
Sugar Beach was the most romantic place I have ever been: swimming in the warm ocean, surfing the gentle waves, lounging in the hammocks while a gentle breeze swayed the palms. Our nightly sundown ritual was the perfect vacation moment. Each evening we would gather on the porch
of the dining room, sip piña coladas made with fresh coconut milk, and watch the sun be swallowed by the pacific. The sky would glow the most incredible orange color, and then slowly fade as the sounds of the night rose up to greet the darkness. The warm thick air wrapped around me like an embrace.
It would be an overstatement to say that I knew my marriage was doomed while I was on my honeymoon to Cozumel, but every memory of that trip is tinged with feelings of fear and foreboding. Sugar Beach stands in sharp contrast to that as every memory brings feelings of peace, hope, and joy. Now, six years later, it is still red skies at night.